If you have a shady corner, a stack of freshly cut branches and a little patience, you already have most of what you need to grow your own mushrooms. Log cultivation is the old-fashioned way: you introduce mushroom spawn into sound hardwood, let the mycelium quietly colonise the timber for a year or so, and then crop from the same logs for several seasons. There is no electricity, no sterilising, no friable substrate to keep at exactly the right moisture. The log does the work.
The trade-off is time. A log inoculated this spring may not fruit until next autumn, and the first flush can be modest. But once a log is running, it asks very little of you beyond shade and a drink in dry weather. For anyone interested in foraging skills, small-scale outdoor living or simply growing something unusual, it is one of the most satisfying projects on the plot.
Not all wood is equal. Mushrooms that grow on logs prefer dense, slow-rotting hardwoods, because the timber holds moisture and takes years to break down. Oak, beech, sweet chestnut, hornbeam, ash, field maple, willow and alder all work well, as do the fruitwoods such as apple, pear, cherry and plum. Birch is usable but decays quickly, so expect a shorter cropping life.
Avoid conifers altogether, along with poplar, elder and laburnum, which either rot too fast or actively inhibit fungal growth. Never use timber that has been treated, painted, varnished or pressure-treated, and never use wood from a tree that died of disease.
The timing matters almost as much as the species. Cut your logs in late winter or early spring, while the tree is still dormant and the sap is low, and use them within a few weeks. Fresh wood is full of moisture and free of competing moulds; old, dry, cracked logs are far less likely to colonise. Aim for logs between 10cm and 25cm in diameter and around 90cm to a metre long. Leave the bark on, and if you can, keep track of which end was up so you can orient the log the same way when you stack it.
For a first attempt, shiitake is hard to beat. It crops reliably in the UK, prefers oak or beech, and produces mushrooms worth far more than the spawn cost. Lion's mane is another good beginner's choice, with a taste a bit like crab. Oyster mushrooms colonise faster than most and will fruit on willow, alder and beech, though they run out of steam after two or three years. Nameko and enoki are worth trying once you have the hang of things.
Spawn comes as wooden dowel plugs, sawdust spawn or thimble-shaped pellets. Dowel plugs are the easiest for a small project: you simply drill, hammer and seal. Sawdust spawn colonises faster and is better for larger batches, but it needs a little more care to keep clean. Buy from a specialist supplier and check the date, because spawn loses vigour with age.
Work on a clean surface, and keep your hands and tools reasonably clean. Using an 8mm or 9mm drill bit, bore holes about 25mm to 30mm deep in a diamond pattern, roughly 10cm to 15cm apart along the log, with rows about 5cm to 8cm apart. Drill all the way round, but leave the ends of the log alone.
Tap a plug into each hole until it sits flush with the bark, then seal the hole with melted wax. Cheese wax, beeswax or a plain paraffin wax all do the job. The wax keeps the spawn from drying out and stops other fungi and insects moving in. Seal any damaged bark and any large cut ends too, as these are the other weak points. Label the log with the species and the date, because in eighteen months you will have forgotten both.
During colonisation, the mycelium wants steady moisture, mild temperatures and darkness. Stack the logs off the ground on bricks or bearers, either in a log-cabin arrangement or as a lean-to against a wall, in deep shade. Under a deciduous tree, on the north side of a shed, or along a shaded hedge all work well. Full sun will dry the logs out and cook the spawn.
Keep the timber damp but never sodden. In a normal British summer, rainfall usually does the job. In a dry spell, water the stack with a hose or watering can every week or so, ideally in the evening. Logs that stay wet on the outside but dry inside are the commonest cause of failure, so water generously and less often rather than little and often.
Most logs fruit first in the autumn following a full growing season, often triggered by a drop in temperature and a good soaking. If nature does not oblige, you can force a flush by submerging a log in cold water for twelve to twenty-four hours, then standing it upright in the shade. Do this in spring or autumn, not in high summer.
Watch out for slugs, which relish young mushrooms, and for squirrels, which have been known to chew through wax seals looking for something interesting. Woodlice and beetles usually cause no real harm. Once a log stops producing, break it up and use it as mulch under shrubs, where the remaining mycelium will carry on quietly improving your soil.
A rustic gate made from coppiced timber can suit a woodland garden. Learn simple joints, bracing and finishing techniques for a sturdy result.
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
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I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
ReplyHedgehogs need gaps, shelter and water. Make your woodland garden friendly with log piles, leaf litter, native hedges and shallow dishes.
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